Sage in The Gardens - Lyrical Lemongrass's almost-quite SURPRISE birthday party

By Allan Yap & Nigel A. Skelchy

Sage is a restaurant conceptualised and started by the Chef of the old Cilantro. Put that together with bunch of food bloggers bent on treating a dear one to a surprise birthday luncheon and you have a recipe for carnage. Either that or an orgy! What with the moans and groans from around the table, you would think that sex had been replaced by food.

Wait...

That's the case with this bunch actually!

But Sage is perfectly placed for food orgasms. Its luxe lunching (saw that phrase somewhere and I had to use it) at its best in Kuala Lumpur. The ingredients are always an adventure (like the Jerusalem Artichokes made into a creamy veloute for the starter). For RM100 you embark on a culinary sexual escapade with partners from all around the world. From Sashimi grade Japanese scallops to buttery melt-in-your-mouth Wagyu beef cheeks and French style Bavarian creams using English Earl Grey served on a steamy Malaysian afternoon with Spanish sounding sorbets, your palate is teleported around the world on a platter.

For RM100 nett in a comfortable, contemporary setting which isn't the least bit pretentious, you have a world class food experience. Everything is of the best quality but quietly so. People who "dress" like this favours Bottega Venetta. No ostentatious brand logos all over the place. Just quiet confident quality.

The Vichyssoise of Scallop with Grated Summer Truffle was as delicate as it was pale. Served at the perfect temperature of cold refrigerator water, it was creamy, had a great contrast of textures and temperatures and the taste; delicate, soft, earthy, sweet, but possessed of a delicious light unctuousness. I thought it was pureed celeriac but it turned out to be pureed jerusalem artichokes instead. I'm so glad I chose this over the more usual Foie Gras. Don't get me wrong; I love Foie Gras. But I know what it's supposed to taste like. I like trying new stuff.

Roasted Seabass with King Prawn and Sauteed Mushrooms showcased everything that was good about the ingredients. Not the most scintillatingly entertaining dish in terms of imagination but it was a solid, wonderfully tasty dish of sweet Chilean Seabass and technically flawless technique of cooking.

Dessert, was insane. Texture, combination of flavours, the contrast of temperatures, the presentation. Siggghhhhhh....Ummmmm, aaaahhhhhhh, oooooooo. The Earl Grey Bavarois with a Chocolate Sorbet and a Ginger Confiture, although a mouthful to name, was a masterpiece. A Bavarois is traditionally a creme patissiere (custard cream) which is set with gelatin. Many times it can come out too firm. Almost bouncy. This one was wobbly, it had enough body to barely sit on the spoon while having some bulgy sides (guys with love handles would absolutely know what I mean) and it just slipped, literally, into your mouth, began melting, and slid like the most luscious cream past your tastebuds and down your throat. The Bergamot was a hint wafting up your nose, the tea came through, the chocolate sorbet had that touch of grittiness that was the textural counterpoint to the silken smoothness of the bavarois. The only disappointment (and I say this to nitpick rather than as a recommendation) was the ginger confiture. It was a clever name but my expectation was set. Basically it was thin slices of ginger "pickled" in sugar and herbs/spices. The texture was a little tough. I would have preferred a light crunch contrast.

All in all HIGHLY recommended for a great afternoon or evening of "luxe lunching" or "decadent dining" at night.

Sage Restaurant and Wine Bar
The Residences Level 6
The Gardens, Mid Valley City
Lingkaran Syed Putra
0322681328